Michal Smrž

Příspěvků: 193
Hi Klaus
At least according to my opinion there is no excuse for any chipping at all, no matter what time period we´re talking about. Natural line is natural line and if there is any boulder part which seems being unclimbable, thus there is no other way than wait for someone stronger. To chip even one hold which can be skipped if someone stronger comes is no solution for a future. I find it very close to artifical walls...why not to screw on some hold then???
Anyway, many thanks for cleaning works on Loucovice as well as for heaps of new problems opened...
Thank you for your promise on no more chipping.
Bye Michal
Vilda Chejn
Příspěvků: 105
čus.tady je další mail od Klause.Myslím, že je dobré aby tady byl.
Hallo,
tank`s for your answer. I understand your opinion very well, because most of
my climbing-life I had the same opinion. You should know that I`m climbing
for 21 years and I only chipped 2 boulders in that time (including that
problem in Loucovice).
Í`m not the typical guy, who likes to chip, I`m allways drying to avoid
chipping, but in this case I made an exception.
I chipped the hold to connect the starting part with the upper part of the
boulder and I chipped it on a place, where was no hold before. So if
stronger people want to climb that boulder, they only have to avoid that one
chipped hold, so the chance to climb the original line is still there.
The boulder is still very, very hard for me and I`m not sure if I can climb
it or not, because the upper part have realy very bad holds, but the are
still there and it would never come into my mind to chip that holds, because
it would destroy the line.
By the way there is an open project to the left of whalerider, which were
brushed by myself, it is on the same boulder as "Nippl Rippl 6c" and seems
to be very hard (get information from Miroslav). Everybody can dry
that and more than 20 new boulders which are brushed and climbed
by me and my friends (no chipped holds).
At last I promise that you will never find chipped holds from me or from
my friends.
See you
Klaus
Jirous Přibil

Příspěvků: 34
Michal Smrž

Příspěvků: 193
Hi Klaus
At the very beginning let me intorduce myself. My name is easilly to be found in the header of this post :-), nevertheless I´m the guy who have left the message for you on your project.
First thank you very much for your open reply on this topic which is taken very sensitively among those who are involved in bouldering at Loucovice and not only among these. Though I fully respect your, unfortunately different, opinion, the thing is, that there are some rules related to some country or area which should be obeyed by all who visit these places. This is kind of teritoriality principal. Our generally accepted rule is not to chipp anything. If we are too weak, then we train more, leave a project for someone stronger, attempt for longer time etc. or even leave the bloc empty, but never chipp! The basic rule is RESPECT THE NATURE, therefore NO CHIPPING. Any boulder has been here many many thousands years before you (anyone else) borned. And who knows, whether there won´t be some incredibly strong people easilly doing 8B-C in the future??? Look at Adam Ondra and his one-two-sending spree everytime when he visites any area. He did Dreamtime within couple of attempts and said "easy". And not far back it was taken like a absolute top and benchmark for 8C... (even if we consider current 8B+ it has it´s difficulty). You are always welcomed at Loucovice, but please no more chipping here (rather everywhere on the earth). No one of us is happy about so few holds there, but maybe this is what makes Loucovice beeing something special and currently probably best granit area in Czech.
Bye and enjoy your bouldering
Michal
Michal Smrž

Příspěvků: 193
Vilda Chejn mi poslal email s otevrenym vyjadrenim Klause Poschla, cloveka, ktery vysekal chyt o kterem si tady piseme. Myslim, ze je dobre znat i jeho nazor.
# Hi,
#
# my name is Klaus. I`m the guy who chipped that one hold at that project in
# loucovice. When you say chipping is forbidden, then I accept that and it is your
# opinion. But you also have to accept that other people have other opinions.
# In this special case my personal opinion is, that people who found and prushed a
# project, should have also the possibility
# to decide about chipping (only for own projects, never for foreign projects or
# finished boulders).
# every climber should be mature enough to decide what´s wrong or wright.
# I think the chipping in this case is an upgrading of the problem and not a
# downgrading and the original line is still untouched.
# Don`t reduce this boulder and my person to this one chipped hold, you must
# allways see the whole boulder and the whole person.
# I´m pretty sure that we have the same spirit for climbing, but sometimes people
# have different meanings and we have to talk about this differences in a polite
# and friendly way, to avoid misunderstandigs and misinterpretations.
# Please let me know your answer and also let me know what other people on this
# site or forum talking about, because I´dont understand your language.
# Thank you!
#
# Kaus
petr štěch
Příspěvků: 1
Michal Smrž

Příspěvků: 193
Vilda Chejn
Příspěvků: 105
Venca Kučírek
Příspěvků: 42
Vilda Chejn
Příspěvků: 105